The newest addition to Thailand’s luxury hotels is the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi in Chiang Mai. This isn’t just a six star hotel however, but a conscious exercise in preserving Thailand’s historic Lanna architecture and handicrafts
Just re-opened is the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi, in Chiang Mai. This is one hotel that’s definitely not for backpackers, as staying there for one night starts at a mind-boggling $600 US. (You can book online at the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi, if you’ve got the cash). But the Dhara is not just another luxury hotel – its recent refurbishment has actually been a huge cultural project that recreates and restores much of the amazing Lanna architectural heritage of Northern Thailand.
Lanna is the name for the ancient 13th century northern Thai kingdom whose influence spread to what is now southwestern China, parts of Laos and Myanmar. (Wikipedia has a useful overview of Lanna’s history) Lanna’s culture possessed scores of distinct architectural and craft styles that are still evident today in northern Thailand – but, as elsewhere in the world, the frenetic pace of change in Thailand threatens to erase this traditional heritage.
The Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi employed some 150 Thai artisans over three years to carve an ornate teak sanctuary modelled after the Mandalay Palace in Myanmar with a seven-tier roof symbolizing the seven steps to heaven.
“Ultimately,” says Rachen Intawong, the conceptual designer of the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi, “we are rebuilding the past so that some of those Lanna traditions can be kept alive for the future. Buddhism teaches us that change is part of life, but who says we have to lose our heritage in the name of change?”
The Toronto Star has a understandably glowing review of the hotel from a somewhat overawed travel writer. Mind you, for 600 US a night, it should be pretty much perfect.
Joe Cummings, who is the editor in chief of the Lonely Planet Thailand and Lonely Planet Bangkok guides and a Chiang Mai resident too, has written the text for a beautiful book called Lanna Renaissance. This is a spectacular collection of photos that documents Lanna architecture and handicrafts in modern day Thailand, Laos and Myanmar, as well as devoting a whole chapter to the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi’s Lanna inspired refurbishment. (I think the book may have been commissioned by the hotel, but I’m not entirely sure). Unfortunately you can’t currently buy Lanna Renaissance on Amazon – it’s only available within Thailand from AsiaBooks, one of Thailand’s major English language bookshop chains and publishers.
Given that the Dhara Dhevi is about 5km outside Chiang Mai, it would make an interesting excursion from the city to see some of Chiang Mai’s surrounding countryside and take a stroll around the hotel itself, assuming they do actually let non-guests in. I’d love to see the Dhara Dhevi’s Lanna architecture, even if I can never afford to stay there.
If you’re looking for a more affordable luxury hotel option in northern Thailand, check out my review of the Anantara Golden Triangle near Chiang Rai, right on the Thailand-Myanmar-Laos border.
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