Khmer Temples Of Thailand
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Cambodia is not the only country in which you can find the majestic ancient temples of the Khmer Empire. Thailand has several spectacular temple complexes that are nearly 1000 years old and worth visiting en route to Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat is rightly on the itinerary of most people who come travelling in South East Asia, but modern day Cambodia is not the only place where you can find examples of these magnificent temples built by the Khmers. The Khmer Empire originally covered much of what is now Thailand and historically there has a lot of tension between the two countries, especially as the Thai empire conquered Angkor back in the 15th century and only gave it back to Cambodia at the beginning of the 20th century.
These tensions still run deep even now - one of the most spectacular Khmer temples to be found outside Angkor is Preah Viharn, which rests slap bang on the border between Cambodia and Thailand. Arguments over its ownership have only recently been settled with agreement that it belongs to both countries, but hopes that it would become a UNESCO World Heritage site have not come to fruition yet as UNESCO is concerned Cambodia and Thailand are still not adhering to the spirit of both owning and so being responsible for Preah Viharn's conservation and protection.
[All photos © Paul Whitehead]
Preah Viharn is just one of several temple complexes located in north eastern Thailand, which is the region known as Isaan. Going out to visit the temples is a great way to explore some of Isaan, which is the agricultural and farming heart of Thailand where life has continued much the same for hundreds of years.
Besides Preah Vihear, the three other key temple complexes are Phimai, Phanom Rung and Prasat Muang Tam. The Bangkok Post recently reported that UNESCO has agreed to give all three complexes World Heritage status as well, although this seems to be still awaiting official confirmation. You can see an excellent collection of Khmer temple photos taken at these four sites on photographer Paul Whitehead's site, who recently made a trek out to Issan specifically to see all the temples, which can be done in a leisurely couple of days. My personal favourite of these is Phanom Rung, which has an amazing long stone concourse which leads to a steep staircase and up to the temple proper (see this photo), but they are all exceptional in their own way, and provide a great excuse to motorbike around the area too.
It's easy to get to Issan - plenty of trains run from Bangkok to Buriram, the nearest city, and you can get a bus direct from Mo Chit bus station in Bangkok to Nang Kong, which is the town nearest to Phanom Rung and Prasat Muang Tam. (See this excellent post on the KhonKaen.com forum describing the logistics of how to get from Bangkok to the ruins and back again, which includes the recommendation of Honey Inn guesthouse in Nang Kong).
It was three years ago that I made my first trip out to Phimai and Phanom Rung. I still haven't been to Preah Vihear, but having looked Paul Whitehead's photos, I'm really keen to go back out there again and spend a few days amongst Thailand's Khmer Temples myself.
Other Travelhappy posts of interest:
- Angkor Thailand: Angkor Wat and The Khmer Empire In Thailand
- Prasat Hin Phimai: Refuge of The Angkor God-King
- Angkor, Bagan, Sukhothai: The Legacy
- Angkor: Heart Of An Asian Empire
- Angkor Wat, Cambodia: A Brief Guide
