Once largely unknown to tourists, Cambodia’s second largest city has popped onto the radar of adventurers and travellers in Southeast Asia seeking a different environment from well travelled Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.
Central Battambang from the King Fy © wrowro
Famous for its impressive temples and bamboo railway, Battambang is widely considered to be the art capital of Cambodia. The city’s small streets are lined with charming shophouses, giving Battambang a unique atmosphere that’s hard to find elsewhere in Cambodia.
Battambang was one of the key locations for filming for Angelina Jolie’s 2017 movie First They Killed My Father, based on the historical memoir of the same name by Loung Ung which recounts her childhood in the time of the Khmer Rouge in the 1970s.
Geographically, Battambang is divided into two sections by the Sangkar River. The west bank of the river is where you’ll find the central city and the majority of Battambang’s things to do, with a variety of temples and boutique hotels located opposite on the eastern side of the river.
Although Battambang is Cambodia’s second largest city, the centre of the city is relatively small and easy to navigate on foot. Like other Cambodian cities, it’s also easy to call a tuk-tuk and get around the city quickly and cheaply.
Our quick guide to Battambang covers the main areas of interest and top things to do in the city, as well as Battambang’s best cafés, restaurants and places to drink. We’ve also included hotel and accommodation recommendations in a variety of price ranges.
Main Areas of Interest in Battambang
Typical French architecture of the Battambang Central Market © shankaronline
- Psah Nat
Psah Nat is Battambang’s central market. Built during the French colonial period, the market has a similar design to Phnom Penh’s famous Central Market. Psar Nat is a great place to buy fresh fruit and serves as a meeting place for locals. - Psah Boeung Chhouk
Just a few blocks from Psah Nat, Psah Boeung Chhouk is another large market located close to the centre of Battambang. You’ll find a variety of items here, from cheap wholesale products to a variety of fresh fruits, vegetables, eggs and meat. - Sangker River
The Sangker River runs north to south through the centre of Battambang, dividing the city into a two parts. The commercial centre of Battambang is on the west side of the river, with a selection of hotels, houses and temples located on the eastern bank.
Things to Do in Battambang
Bamboo Train, Battambang © ag_gilmore
- Temples
There are several temples within Battambang’s city limits, most of which are worth visiting. The White Elephant Pagoda, located right in Battambang’s city centre near the Sangker River, is an interesting Khmer temple that’s famous for its elephant sculptures. - Art Galleries
Battambang is rapidly becoming Cambodia’s capital of art and culture, with a variety of galleries and art spaces popping up around the city. ROMCHEIK 5 and Tep Kao Sol are two of the city’s most popular art galleries, with a variety of works from local Khmer artists on display. - Other interesting art spaces around Battambang include the Sangker Gallery and Sammaki Art Space, both of which are easy to access from the centre of Battambang.
- Wat Banan
Wat Banan is a Khmer temple located approximately 18km out of Battambang. With its hilltop location and classic Khmer architecture, Wat Banan offers a great blend of Khmer history and spectacular panoramic views of Battambang’s surroundings. - Battambang Bat Caves
Located 10 to 15 minutes from Battambang by tuk-tuk, the Battambang Bat Caves is home to an incredible population of Asian wrinkle-lipped bats. Millions of bats fly out of the caves just before sunset, creating an incredible photo opportunity. - Countryside Tours
Battambang’s countryside is full of unique attractions, from local neighbourhoods to farmland, caves and hiking trails. Countryside tuk-tuk tours give you the chance to see a side of local life in Battambang that most tourists never see, all with the help of a knowledgeable local guide. - Bamboo Train
Battambang’s infamous people-powered Bamboo Train runs along the semi-used railway track that travels through the town. The short trip takes just over one hour and gives you a nice view of rice paddies and local houses before returning to its starting point just outside Battambang.
Best Luxury Hotels in Battambang
- Au Cabaret Vert Hotel
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Located 10 to 15 minutes from Battambang’s centre, Au Cabaret Vert Hotel is a luxurious four and a half star resort with a selection of spacious bungalows and suites. Beyond the luxurious rooms, the biggest advantages of this hotel are its great outdoor pool and quiet atmosphere.
Best Mid Range Hotels in Battambang
- Classy Hotel
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Located a short walk from the Sangker River, Classy Hotel is a mid-priced hotel that offers cosy, comfortable double and twin rooms, as well as a large family suite. It also has a swimming pool, a small spa and a surprisingly well equipped fitness room. - Delux Villa
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Delux Villa is a mid-range boutique hotel located a short walk from Battambang’s Royal Railway Station. Rooms are spacious and comfortable, while the outdoor pool is a great place to chill out and unwind during the daytime. - Phka Villa Hotel
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A small bungalow resort, Phka Villa Hotel has a selection of comfortable rooms suitable for solo travellers, couples and families. The resort’s facilities include a restaurant and pool. The location is the only downside here — it’s about an 800 metre walk to the riverside area.
Best Budget Hotels in Battambang
- Royal Hotel
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Located just 50 metres from the Central Market, the Royal Hotel is a convenient budget hotel that’s perfect for backpackers and solo travellers. Rooms here are somewhat dated and the Wi-Fi on the slow side, although it’s hard to complain for the price and excellent location. - King Fy Hotel
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nother conveniently located hotel, King Fy Hotel is a short two-minute walk from the Sangker River and less than 10 minutes from most of Battambang’s temples. Rooms are quite spacious for a budget hotel, while the outdoor pool is a great place to relax and refresh in the evening. - Asia Hotel
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Located just a few minutes from the Psar Boeung Chhouk clothing market, the Asia Hotel is a good ultra-budget accommodation option. Rooms are clean and extremely cheap but lack air conditioning and hot water, making this a good option only if you’re on a very strict budget.
Places to Eat and Drink in Battambang
Cambodia: Cha Kh’nhei © sstrieu
Despite its relatively small size and off-the-beaten-path reputation, Battambang has a fairly good selection of Khmer and international restaurants:
- About The World Restaurant & Cafe
Around The World is a small, locally run restaurant and café that serves fresh coffee and a good selection of Khmer dishes. The menu includes a variety of Khmer favourites and several vegan and vegetarian-friendly items. - Coconut LyLy Restaurant & Cooking School
Coconut LyLy hosts Khmer cooking classes, giving visitors a chance to learn how to make some of Cambodia’s most famous dishes. In addition to the cooking classes, Coconut LyLy sells local Khmer food at competitive prices of just a few dollars per item. - Jaan Bai Restaurant
Jaan Bai serves Khmer, Thai and Vietnamese dishes in a stylish, modern environment. With art from local Battambang artists displayed on the walls, this a great place to enjoy a strong cup of coffee and a variety of Southeast Asian dishes. - Nary Kitchen
Nary Kitchen is a restaurant and cooking school that specialises in Khmer food. Open for group classes in the morning, the chef usually takes students to a local market to purchase ingredients before returning for the class. Nary Kitchen is also open until 10pm as a Khmer restaurant. - La Casa Battambang
La Casa offers excellent Italian food, from wood fired pizzas to a variety of pasta, risotto and meat-based dishes. The menu also includes a good variety of salads and appetisers. A great choice if you feel like a break from Khmer food. - Kinyei Cafe
Kinyei Café is a welcome addition to Battambang’s coffee scene — a classic café with a variety of snacks and healthy meals on offer. In addition to the fresh espresso and café snacks, Kinyei Café serves several gluten free meals. - Choco L’Art Cafe
Cake and coffee are the name of the game at Choco L’Art Café — one of Battambang’s most popular cafés. Prices are slightly on the high side for Battambang, although the relaxing and peaceful atmosphere make this a great place to hang out and caffeinate in the morning.
How to Get to Battambang
View from the Bow © View from the Bow
Although Battambang has a small domestic airport, it’s been closed for business for the last 10+ years and doesn’t host any commercial airlines. As of 2017, the only ways to get to Battambang are by bus, private car or boat.
By Bus
Battambang is located on National Highway 5, which connects the city to Phnom Penh and the Thai/Cambodia border town of Poipet. Buses from Phnom Penh to Battambang take about five hours to reach the city and cost four dollars.
Buses also depart from Siem Reap, which is linked with Battambang via National Highway 6. It takes around four hours to complete the 77 kilometre journey due to the highway layout, which passes through Sisophon on the way to Battambang. Buses from Siem Reap cost six dollars.
By Boat
Battambang is easy to reach by boat from Siem Reap. Boats depart from Siem Reap at 7am on a daily basis and take eight to ten hours to get to Battambang, making this a slow but enjoyable way to travel.
Travelling by boat gives you a unique view of Cambodia, with the route passing by farms, fishing villages and local settlements. The boats used for this route are covered but don’t provide much in the way of sun protection, making it important to bring some sunscreen and a hat.
Boat tickets are available from most travel agencies in Siem Reap and cost $20 to $22 each for the one-way journey. Although boat travel is available year-round, low water levels mean most trips during dry season only travel part of the way to Battambang before switching to a minivan.