Travel Happy
Bangkok
My First Day Backpacking Solo: Bangkok
My First Day Backpacking Solo: Bangkok
I first went backpacking solo in December 2002, departing from London. I arrived in Bangkok on a three day stopover before continuing to my final destination of Australia. At the time, I thought I would be away for six months, a year at most. That was nearly five years ago. I never went home.
I still remember the sense of almost complete terror that I felt when I first arrived, on my own, at Bangkok’s Khao San Road. It sounds overwrought because I was overwrought. Although numerous friends had told me about Khao San, nothing prepared me for its neon and noise assault on the senses , the endless bars, street sellers, hawkers and other tourists, all trying to pretend they’d gone native 2 days off the plane. There’s no 50/50 with Khao San – either you enjoy its thumping bass beats whilst you guzzle beer besides the street or peruse the authentic ethnic trinkets imported from China, or you go and find something else to do, because for all its legendary status, Khao San is nothing but an outside mall. That first night, it felt not only overwhelming, but also slightly sinister – the humid, shirt-sticking heat, the smells and cooking steam of the noodle stands hanging over the street, the sound systems all playing Eminem at 11, and the jostle of endless faces, Thai, English, Israeli, Swedish, German, American, Canadian, Indian… everywhere I looked, everyone seemed to be hooked in, to know what they were doing, to be enjoying themselves. And I was standing there witless with a backpack, wholly unsure of where to go and feeling distinctly, unpleasantly, alone.
There are times where I like being alone, where I value and even fight for my solitude so I can just enjoy my own thoughts or even not having to bother having any thoughts. This was not one of those times. I stumbled up the road and found the hotel I’d prebooked, the Sawadee Hotel Bangkok Inn. It was fine, the rooms overpriced but OK, but by now extreme paranoia had set in. That night, I was actually scared to leave the room for fear of leaving my laptop there, because my room’s window didn’t lock and there was a walkway underneath. I was already imagining hordes of ninjas deftly making their way across the roof. Hiding the laptop wasn’t good enough because They would find it immediately. They would be well practised in shaking down hotel rooms for foriegners’ valuables. It was obvious what was happening. I was Getting The Fear. So that night, I made only one brief sortie to the 7-11 on Khao San Road. I told myself to get a grip and calm down. Everything was fine, you’re just a bit shaken up by the flight and being in a new place, it’s all going to be alright…
And then the sky exploded.
Thousands of lights screamed and died in the night sky, the sharp cracks of gunfire accompanying them as hundreds of people seemed to appear out of nowhere. So my addled brain percieved it. In reality, it was something entirely benevolent – a huge firework celebration for the King’s Birthday, the world’s longest serving monarch to whom all Thais are fiercely loyal. I gave a weak smile to no-one at my stupidity. It was nice of them to celebrate my arrival.
Once I’d scurried back to my room, my dinner consisted of…I can’t remember what, but if it came from 7-11 you can guarantee it wasn’t authentically Thai. That was all I managed that evening. Everything else and indeed, everyone else, was out to get me, so best leave it alone to sleep off the jet lag with a belly full of Pringles…
It makes me embarrassed to recall all this now, but that night was the definition of culture shock for me. I felt almost panicky and only safe in my room. It took a considerable effort of will to emerge from the room the next day, taking a walk down to the Grand Palace. I told myself that it would do me good to have a walk, but basically, I was scared of talking to any of the Thai tuk-tuk drivers. My self-confidence was scuttling along the floor looking for a hole into which it could disappear. And – what was I thinking? – the laptop came with me. I lugged that fucker through 35 degree heat all the way down to the Grand Palace, a good 20 minute walk, just in case the ninjas made a lightning attack on my room in my absence.
It takes something as spectacular as the Grand Palace to wrench your mind away from obsessing about ridiculous things and elevate back up into some sort of intelligent thought. Wandering around the breath-taking buildings with their glorious cascading roofs and glittering spires, (Somerset Maugham once said they were so fantastical they looked “as if they shouldn’t exist”), the Fear began to ebb. It was seeing the Reclining Buddha that finally gave me a sense of, if not serenity, then a definite calming sense of awe. This huge statue, too big to fully capture in one photograph, lies in its own chamber within the palace, depicting the smiling Buddha lying back. It seems almost comical in one way – his smile is like that of someone who’s just enjoyed a cracking joke. And it’s the smile of Someone Who Knows. It really is more than art or decoration – it’s something that’s completely captivating to look at, baffling – “how the hell did they make that?” – and ultimately starts off something in your mind, an intellectual rather than just visual stimulation. Photos can never do it justice, not only through lack of perspective but because they can’t capture the Buddha’s sense of presence. I’ve seen a lot of statues of Buddha since but none of them have the presence that the Reclining Buddha emanates. Which is quite eerie for someone as emphatically non-spiritualist as myself.
Looking at historical things, buildings, museums, churches, I am often left feeling a bit saddened about how indifferent I feel about what it is that I’m looking at. I wish this church or that tapestry grabbed my imagination, spiked my senses, got me fascinated and intrigued about it. But it rarely happens. The Reclining Buddha did all those and also helped me get back into a more normal frame of mind that this travelling business really could be alright if by 2pm on a Thursday you could wind up encountering a mindblowing personification of the Buddha – without having even paused for lunch. And indeed, even in my darkest moments over the following months of travelling, there was a continual refrain that came to my lips: “Still, it beats working for Vodafone”.
This has completely settled my decision to go to Thailand for my travels. I will be teaching English in Payatta, hopefully i will go through the same revelation as you did!
its been great reading this iam going to oz in jan 09 and scared stiff although i did go to india on my own but was only on hols for 1 month.i remember how i felt at the start of that cheers steve
Thanks for your article. Its my 1st day here is Thailand and apart from the Ninjas going through my window, i am feeling exactly like you did (actually… on second thoughts… can ninja’s climb up to 4th floor windows?!). The plan is to wake up early to see the monks near the Grand Palace…. hope this anxiety will die down by tomorrow! Thanks again!
Latest reader to echo the comments above. I appreciate the info in all that i’ve read on your site so far and I like the way you put it across too.
Bangkok is to be the first stop on my road to Auckland via Perth and it’s the culture clash that I want to face. I’m hoping that The Fear and Life are synonymous..
Thanks Rob – I think Getting The Fear is often the first step to living Life with a capital L — but not always. Hope you have a great trip – Chris
So did you pack your laptop with you after your Thailand excursion?
Or did you learn to trust?
I’m currently planning my first, long overdue backpacking trip and these little things are the ones that stick out when planning.
Thanks for writing about your experience and I’m glad you never went back to the UK!
I’m sitting in an apartment in Bangkok by myself right now. I was feeling nervous about going out to get dinner but I only had to get halfway through this article before I left. Thank you!
Good work Alli! Glad my story helped get you out there – hope you have a wonderful time exploring Bangkok.
Hello Chris, Alli and anyone else about to travel or currently travelling for the first time.
I first posted here about a year ago, before flying to Bangkok and I made it around the world in one piece and of course I had a fantastic time.
If I could advise myself a year ago I would;
(1) Not worry about half the things I was concerned about. For your average person with common sense and half a brain the world out there is just as safe as the UK (probably safer than London). Within that I include animals, terrorists and weather.
(2) Make sure my finances were in such a way that I had no need to return to the UK before I wanted to. As it is I ended up with a half decent job in Sydney but was unable to stay as I couldn’t afford to pay the overheads in Sydney and London
(3) Spend more time in NZ than Australia. NZ is just as amazing as we are all lead to believe and the Australians can be just as xenophobic as we are at times lead to believe. I liked Australia and many Australians but I witnessed more than once the sort of racism you wouldn’t have seen in UK since the National Front in the 80s.
Alli, excuse my encroaching on your post but the only other advice I would add re: Thailand is go South nearer the beginning of your time there than the end. The trains in Thailand are in my opinion the only way to travel and you can travel from the very north to the very south for about £30 and see some amazing places. I left the south and the islands/Ao Nang/Krabi until the very end and I have yet to see such an amazingly beautiful beach (apart from 90 mile beach NZ) Chiang Mai was cool but is undoubtedly a tourist trap..
Anyway, i’m very back at work in London now. I loved so much of my time away and if I ever become financially solvent again I may do it again =)
Rob
Great comment Rob – I wish more people who’d read stuff on Travelhappy and gone travelling would come back and say how it worked out for them :-)
I am going to Thailand at the end of this month. It will be
the first time going abroad on my own. I am very nervous. Reading
this has made me feel a little better. I hope to find people along
the way and make new friends. Wish me luck!
Good luck Jude! I’m following the month after, also the
first time going abroad on my own, also nervous.
I too am traveling to Thailand, from New York. And I too am scared. I’m glad I found this site. My neuroses are stemming from the fear of the unknown. I’ve never been to Asia. I don’t speak any of the languages at all. At first I’m meeting up with people from my New York yoga studio to do a retreat on Koh Phagnan, and then I am most likely by myself for the remainder of the trip. Are the guesthouses safe for a young woman traveling by herself?
Also just a few logistical questions: are food vendors, restaurants, and stores open 24/7? Does everyone really stand for the National Anthem every morning and every evening? And if you don’t know some of the customs (like I just read in my guidebook about the “not stepping over people’s bodies”) is it very disrespectful bordering on illegal?
Thanks in advance to those who answer these questions for me. I’ve never been so far from home before, so far from my own customs and culture.
Hi Ariana – thanks for your comment and honesty. Take a deep breath – I realise you feel a little overwhelmed right now but I think you will quickly relax once you get to Thailand and see it for yourself. You will be with your yoga group on Koh Phangan to begin with, so you will have familiar faces around you as you settle in. To try and answer your questions
1) yes, guesthouses are safe for single women. Just observe normal safety rules as you would at home
2) 24/7 living is an interesting one – the ubiquitious 7/11 shops are open 24 hours a day, but there is a general shutdown at 2 am – in Bangkok you can find places that stay open all night but they are usually geared towards the party crowd.
3) People do stop for the National Anthem in the morning and evening, yes, but you don’t actually hear it played in many places. Just follow the lead of those around you
4) Dont’ worry too much about local customs – avoid pointing with your feet at people or touching people on the top of the head – otherwise just be polite and respectful and smile a lot. Thais are very laid back in general and will either ignore any faux pas on your part or gently correct you. Try and keep your patience at all times, especially if you are having trouble communicating.
Most of all, just try to relax into being in Thailand and go with the flow – you’ll make mistakes, have some frustrating moments, but you’ll pick up a whole lot too.
Have a great trip.
Best
Chris
Hey Ariana and Chris,
I was in your shoes not so long ago Ariana and as I say in my earlier post I was worrying about everything and anything. I now know that 99% of which was just nerves.
It was my first trip to Asia too but you get into the swing of it very quickly. Bangkok can be as western as you need it to be and the whole country seems to be driven by the tourist dollar so everyone wants to be your friend. A bit of money ironed out any concerns I had when I was there, my first two nights I had a small apartment in BKK with a communal swimming pool for the same price as a very cheap British Bed and Breakfast.
i didn’t read up too much about the local customs and so on but i’m sure you’re polite and respectful and that will keep you in one piece regardless of your location in the world. Common sense is a rare commodity but is everything you need I promise.
I wouldn’t;
stay in Khao San Road, Bangkok
get on an elephant
I would;
Learn the important and useful phrases
USe the train to travel around and stay in 2nd class if overnight
Use taxis with meters or agree tuk-tuk prices in advance
You’ll be fine Ariana I promise and if you get stuck this site is very good.
Hello Chris, I hope everything is going well, keep up the good work =)
R
Thanks for the kind words Rob!
Thank you. Just hearing your responses makes me feel better. My yoga teacher is so zenned out that she doesn’t understand any of my concerns. I am generally a nervous nelly before I travel, and once I’m there, like most of you, I chill out and go with the flow. I guess the main thing is to understand it might be tough but I will eventually (hopefully sooner than later) get into the swing of things.
If anyone is going to be in Thailand this March, let me know and maybe we can meet up.
It’s nice to have a little support group, even if you don’t know the people supporting you. So thank you. Hopefully when I get back, I can help out another nervous traveler:)
I am 2 weeks away from departing on my first solo backpacking trip and I am terrified but in an incredibly exciting way. All of my friends from home decided to do the usual school straight to uni route and I needed something different. Being only 18, I was concerned about how safe I would be and really whether I would be able to cope being on my own but after reading this I am unbelievably reassured.
Ariana – I arrive on March 15th and it would be lovely to cross paths at some point!
Hi Everyone,
Me & a friend had planned a 3 week trip to Thailand, hoping to go to Cambodia & Vietnam too, however she pulled out the other day, but I am going to take all of the advice I have seen on here and just pull myself together and go on my own!!! Thank you for all the advice and experiences that everyone has been sharing, it’s making me feel a lot calmer about the situation.
Leanne & Ariana – I arrive in Bangkok on the 15th April,if you’re going to still be in Thailand in April would be great to have people to meet up with!
Thanks
Laura
Thailand is an amazing country that might feel messy at first. Just a bit of patience and time to explore will be rewarding. If any question about your trip, be most welcome to ask.
regards from Bkk
Jose
Thailand is such a backpacker friendly country, none of the travelers have any particular agenda, except for enjoying themselves. You’ll find that all your reservations and fears will soon dissipate once you get there and begin enjoying the moment. Almost all travelers (there will always be a few that bring their problems on holiday with them) are very chilled out and look out for one and other. This will be one of the best experiences of your life and you’ll meet several like-minded people along the way
I went through this process last year, backpacking by myself for the first time. I can honestly say that this will be the only way I travel from now on. I loved Thailand so much that I am also going back there next week with no scheduled return date. I could do with some unwinding as I’ve been caught up in the middle of the chaos in Egypt :) There’s no better place than Thailand!
Hi Everyone
I’m travelling on my own for the first time to Bangkok on the 7th of March and am a bit … nervous. I’m landing in the morning and then going on the overnight train down to Koh Pangnon and meeting my friend there, is this a safe way to travel by myself? I’m a young girl on my own and really dont want to put myself in a dangerous situation if i can avoid it. I’m actually hoping to possibly meet other backpackers doing the same journey, am i best off hanging out in Khao san Road for the day to do that? I’m thinking about dropping my bag off in a hostel for the day there, can you recommend the best one to go to?
Any advise would be great :)
Thanks alot
Sophie
I will be heading to Thailand for my first Backpacking trip the 2nd week of April. If anyone else is going to be headed there around that time I would love to meet up as I will be solo. please e-mail me and let me know. I am from the US and live in Las Vegas–Thanks, Burton
Hi there guys. Traveling to thailand to do some backpacking in the second week of april (8-18). Plan on checking out bangkok and then head out on an adventure to see more of the country (most likely south to check out the islands and maybe stopping in pattaya on the way). If anyone wants exchange details we can see if we can cross paths somewhere! email me paulcan@live.ca
cheers!
@ Sophie: I’ve been in Bangkok for 2 weeks now. If you want someone to point u in the right direction give me a shout pistrix@hotmail.co.uk
@ Laura I arrive in Bkk on April 12 and I will be traveling Solo as well please send me a email and maybe we can arrange to meet up I set up a new email address for my travels it’s thaiburt@hotmail.com or add me and mesg me on facebook (Burton wheeler) las vegas, nv thanks and happy travels
Guys, I’ve set up a Facebook page for Travelhappy where solo travellers can post their details and talk to each other direct rather than having to wait for me to approave comments. Follow the link for the solo travel discussion page. Would really apprecaite it if you can post there and see if we can get some conversations started that will help solo travellers. Cheers, Chris
Well I made it home safe and sound. My trip to Thailand was short and I can’t wait to go back. I’m glad I read your article and struck out on my own. Next time around, I’ll be so much more comfortable and be able to make better decisions. Cheers.
Great article, reading it sent a shiver down my spine, haha.
Your encounter of arriving in Thailand sounds EXACTLY like mine. It’s terrifying at first, but after that starts to wear off, what a liberating feeling.
When you’re on your own like that, it really feels like the world is your oyster (lame, I know).
Hi, i will arrive in phuket on the 20th of april with no more plans than visiting.. and i will end up in bangkok around 5th may .. if anyone there .. let me know !
I wish there is something similar like this for Asian traveler. I am now in the middle of my travel, and have reached far to China on my own. Can’t believe it myself.
After half way, things are not so scary as compared the first time acknowledging that I was alone on a foreign land ;)
well i have just turned 60 and after surviving four heart attacks and a load of stents holding my arteries open , i have just booked ay flight and first hotel in Bangkok at the end of this month, after 12 days in the city i am going to attempt to travel by train to Cambodia and through to Siam reap staying at the Earthwalkers hostel over the Xmas and new year whilst exploring the surrounding temples. My return flight is at the end of 12 weeks and as i am on my own where i end up is anybodys guess, hardest problem was medical insurance and the amount of tablets i need for this adventure , but its going to take more than a bit of flooding to stop me …..
I am on Koh San Road at the minute and I have exactly the same kind of thoughts as you. Scared to go out, scared to leave my lap top in my room etc etc. Its crazy, considering I have been in Vietnam for two weeks before here, and I was also in Thailand priveously in April but I was travelling with a few friends but I am on my own now and it does have a big impact on you.
treasuretrove for travellers.i plan to glean data for my trip. Cao i go to bkok without booking hotel accmn in april?
thanks for all tips and information. Im 21y travelling first time to Bangkok alone this month. im very exsited and a bit scared after all this reading lol. hope i will Get a good time ;) thx again ur my hero
Since I’m still getting emailed when someone comments on this article… I did go to Bangkok (following my Jan 2011 post), totally freaked out, went to a temple, settled down, and spent 5 and a half fantastic months travelling in Asia and Australasia (see website). This was a great wee bit of writing that helped me a lot – it’s nice to hear of other people being scared and daft on their own. Thanks man!
Hi Keiron, thanks for the followup! Really pleased to hear you had an amazing time. I’ve just been nosing through your travel blog – great stuff. Re still getting the updates – do the email notifications you’re receiving have an easy way to unsubscribe from receiving anymore? I assumed that was the case, but a bit worried now that everyone’s getting spammed. Cheers, Chris (my email – chris [at} travelhappy.info if you prefer)
wow! i enjoyed reading your blog! im a filipina who’s been doing backpacking around my country by myself and is thinking to travel in thailand as my very first out side the country trip… All the thoughts excites me..though along the excitement is my fear of “what’s gonna happen to me there” what if this,what if that..but upon reading your blog put me at ease..somehow..and i bet your your traveling solo in thailand is quite an awesome! and will make me tougher if i conquer it myself..anyway i did enjoy this blog i would love to read your whole journey..i find your writing more interesting than others..cheers to life!
Hi Kaye, thanks for the kind comments. I am sure you will find Thailand easy after travelling around your home country – the Philippines are an amazing and very underrated tourist destination in my opinion. You will find Thailand perhaps a bit easier in terms of transport and English is spoken widely – not as much as in the Philippines but I am sure you’ll have no issues. You are already used to the heat and crowds of Asia which is what freaks out most Westerners visiting Thailand :D There is also a burgeoning Filipino community in Bangkok – see http://www.siampinoy.com/ if you want some expat insight. Hope this helps and happy travels, Chris
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